Rolex Submariner watches check all the boxes in terms of desirability, timeless design, durability, and value. The Submariner Reference 5513 is the ultimate tool watch, and looks great when worn to a formal event or even just while hanging out.
The original Rolex Submariner Ref 5513 with an original Rolex box and instruction manuals originally retailed for a few hundred dollars.
When people learn that I’m a full-time watch dealer, and have been for over 35 years, they will inevitably ask for my advice on purchasing anything manufactured by Rolex. Regardless of gender, I almost always recommend (budget permitting) a Rolex Submariner watch. Although there are numerous “entry level” vintage Rolex Submariner watches that one could collect, the Rolex Stainless Steel Submariner Ref. 5513 offers unmatched value, versatility, and durability — not to mention the fact that everyone looks cool wearing a vintage Rolex Submariner on their wrist.
Although the so-called “James Bond” original model Rolex Submariner was sold in 1953, the Submariner Reference 5513 was subsequently produced from 1962 until 1989 and there are many different dial variations — the majority of which feature a black dial and luminescent hour markers. Furthermore, the 5513 was one of Rolex’s most popular models and numerous examples have survived in excellent condition. As a result, whether you wish to form a collection or simply own one fine 5513, there are many ways to go about collecting this classic Rolex wristwatch.
The Most Sought-after Rolex Submariner
The Reference 5513 has always been one of the most collectible and sought-after vintage watches in the marketplace and much of this has to do with the fact that Rolex never radically altered the design of the watch (or its timeless black dial) over the course of its 27-year production run. As a result, the 5513 looks as cool and sleek today as it might have looked back in 1962. Indeed, it sets the standard for a “tool watch”.
The Rolex Submariner has nine black dial variations. Pictured is the Gilt Dial, Open Chapter Rings dial.
Brief Overview of the Evolution of the Rolex Submariner
To give a very brief overview of the 5513, when production began in 1962, the early models featured domed acrylic crystals. These acrylic crystals impart a very classic “vintage” look that the later examples (produced from 1981 until 1989, when the 5513 featured a sapphire crystal) do not possess. There are many theories as to why Rolex produced two essentially identical watches — one with a chronometer movement and one without — but my guess is that the Certified Chronometer version was slightly more expensive and intended for use by professional divers who needed to keep accurate track of their dive time. Hence, the unidirectional rotating bezel with 60-minute graduation.
The oyster case on the Submariner Ref. 5513 was the first 40 mm Rolex Submariner with a black bezel insert.
After 35 years of buying and selling vintage Rolex Submariner watches, I could write a book about all the variations and minute details found on vintage 5513 dials. When 5513 dials were first made in 1962, they featured painted luminescent hour markers and a glossy black dial. We call these “gilt glossy dials”. These early dials are rare and desirable. Rolex Submariner Reference 5513 dials are also what we call “2 liner” dials — which refers to the two lines of “Rolex Submariner / 600ft = 200 m” text on the dial, versus the 4 lines of text on modern Submariners.
A few characteristics of the Rolex Submariner Ref 5513 are solid link oyster bracelet and the infamous gilt glossy dials.
When production began in 1962, Rolex used radium paint — which was discontinued when the dials were found to be too radioactive. Rolex then switched to tritium paint approximately 2 years later. Early dials that were made with radium are typically marked “Swiss” just below 6 o’clock. Early tritium dials will also often feature a faint underline below the Rolex Submariner text to signify that it was not a radium dial. Needless to say, an underline dial can greatly increase the rarity and desirability of a Reference 5513. Another great rarity is the 3-6-9 “Explorer” dial, which was only produced for 2 years. Ref. 5513’s featuring this type of dial can often command six figure sums!
Starting in 1966, the glossy black dial was replaced by the matte black dial. The matte dial is far more common, but nevertheless beautiful — especially when the black organic paint has reacted with sunlight and taken on a deep brown “tropical” hue. Another fun early dial variation (which ran from 1962-1969) which collectors enjoy (and one that I recommend considering) is the “Meters First” dial, whereupon the depth reading reverses the text from “600ft = 200m” to “200m = 600ft”.
The early editions of the Rolex Submariner have a glossy dial but later were replaced by the matte black dial.
Finally, we have “Maxi dials” — Ref. 5513 dials produced from 1977 until approximately 1984, which featured oversized “lume plots” (luminescent hour markers). Rolex Submariner Reference 5513’s mounted with “Maxi dials” make a bold statement on the wrist and are quite desirable.
The Modern Rolex Submariner
Eventually, the Reference 5513 would ultimately evolve into the modern and iconic Ref. 16610 — featuring not only a date function, but also a heavier solid link Oyster bracelet. There is even a modern Rolex Submariner Date Ref. 116619, in 18K white gold, with retail pricing of $38,350 and even a yellow gold one, if that is your preference.
Whether you are interested in just one nice Rolex Submariner Reference 5513 for everyday wear, or are seeking out a rare example, or are building a collection, Rolex Submariner watches check all the boxes in terms of desirability, timeless design, durability, coolness factor, and value. The Rolex Submariner Reference 5513 may very well be the ultimate diver’s timepiece/tool watch, but it also looks great when worn to a formal event, a business meeting, or even just while hanging out on a Saturday afternoon.
I hope that this brief overview has been a fun read, and if you are interested in learning more about some of the exceptional vintage Rolex Submariner watches (or even the later, more modern Submariner Date models) that we currently have in stock, please don’t hesitate to reach out to me personally or to a member of my staff.
Until next time,
Joe DeMesy
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Joe DeMesy is the owner and President of DeMesy & Co. in Dallas, Texas- One of the largest dealers of vintage and contemporary luxury timepieces. He has been actively involved in the pocket watch and wristwatch market since 1979 and is well known by dealers and collectors throughout the world. Joe is a member of the International Watch & Jewelry Guild, as well as the National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors. His company has been featured as one of Inc. Magazine’s 5000 fastest growing privately held businesses in America.
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